It all began my last night in Lijiang China when I met up with 3 Americans - Jean, Mike and Jay - who were headed out the do the 2 day Tiger Leaping Gorge hike the next day. I was still undecided at this point, but after hanging out with some of my fellow country persons and being encouraged that it "wasn't that hard", I was convinced to go.
And you know what I found out about my fellow country persons? They are liars!!! Not that hard, my ass! Tiger Leaping Gorge is a 1000 meter deep gorge that the Yangtze River cuts through on its way from the Tibetan border to Sichuan. Beautiful, majestic, National Geographic worth - but not "not that hard", especially when your fellow climbers are all apparently more sporty than they seemed while drinking beer and eating Tibetan food the night before.
Anyway, the first part of the trip presented no heart attack inducing physical peril, just a pretty cool minivan ride to the small village where the Gorge begins. Gorgeous countryside including a stop at a little temple with the biggest incense sticks in creation (see picture). Took about 2 1/2 hours to arrive at Jane's Tibetan Guesthouse, where we could stash our backpacks and grab water, ponchos, etc before heading out. Guess what? Jane? Not a woman. Yes, dear friends, my vacation was blessed with yet more ladyboy goodness. Jane was a bit different as she didn't dress like a lady, just lived like one right down to "her" pronouns.
After dropping our stuff and being fluttered over by Jane, we headed off to the trail head. Now I had noticed when exiting the minivan that some local dudes seemed to be checking us laowei (foreigner) out. I didn't think much of it at the time, but then I saw the same dudes at the trail head. And they had their donkeys with them. This was the first hint I had that maybe Tiger Leaping Gorge was a little more than "not that bad".
Oh my friends, it was rough. Remember how I said the Gorge was 1000 meters deep? Well, the first part of the climb is a rocky, muddy 900 meter ascent. Pretty much straight up. Within 45 minutes, I was hurtin'. The donkey man inquired politely if I would like a lift. NO! I could do this. After 90, I was dyin'. The donkey man strongly suggested that I take that lift now. NOOOO!!!! I won't give in! But then at 120, I gladly leapt onto the back of the damn man's donkey. 450 meters and a near heart attack was enough for me. I rode that jackass to the nearest little village and got some lunch. Defeated by the donkey indeed.
Needless to say after lunch I did not continue climbing. Instead, I humbly rode my donkey back to Jane's, got a private room, took a hot shower, and huddled in my humiliation under my blankets, listening as the Yangtze giggle outside my window.
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| The Infamous Donkey Man |
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